19 September, 2024

Kitchen closure: signature restaurant departs Vic Rd

Committed to Devonport… Vic Rd Kitchen’s Harriet and Ian Shields still have two hospo businesses in the village

News that Devonport’s best-recognised restaurant, Vic Rd Kitchen, is closing has surprised many locals, but its owners say they remain invested in delivering hospitality in the village – despite the many challenges.
Bookings from regulars have “gone bananas” since Harriet and Ian Shields announced less than two weeks ago that their final service would be this Saturday night, 21 September.
“A lot of people have been really saddened,” says Ian. But Harriet adds: “I’m kind of more sad for Devonport than for us.”
The couple, who have two preschoolers, say rationalising in today’s market makes sense for them, allowing a focus on their wine bar a few doors down the road and The Kestrel at the ferry terminal, which they run in partnership with Manuka owner Pete Reeves.
Vic Rd opened in 2018 and Ian believes it will leave a gap in the local market. The chef is proud their food-to-table philosophy earned a place in Cuisine magazine’s list of top New Zealand restaurants for the past three years running.
They say destination dining in Devonport has its challenges, including an ageing population and Lake Rd putting off patrons.
“It’s an expensive suburb to live in and I don’t think we have the younger generation coming through,” says Ian. He points to busier Mission Bay and even nearby Milford, as places with new apartments bringing in younger people.
“Lake Rd is a huge issue,” says Harriet. “It is so notorious… we have wine suppliers from Marlborough commenting on it; people wanting to do deliveries in the morning because they have heard how bad it gets.”
The Narrow Neck couple say they are realists, and are looking ahead. They see prospects in trialling their successful wine bar model elsewhere. They are also looking forward to having more time with their “hospo babes” – four-year-old Sophia and Jack, aged two, who attended his first wine tasting with Harriet at just six days old.
Takapuna-raised Harriet, who studied wine science, first met Liverpudlian Ian when both were working on Waiheke. In Devonport, she handles front of house, with Ian in the kitchen. One thing they are particularly proud of, and wish they had made more of, is operating at near-zero food waste levels.
Early good reviews, including from broadcaster and food critic Jesse Mulligan in Viva, put them on the map.
“We’ve had really good weeks and really bad weeks, but it never got back to pre-Covid levels,” says Ian.
When they opened, some clients were nearing retirement age but still working. Now many had sold up and left the area. Others had understandably cut back spending.
They first thought of closing late last summer, but decided to “try everything”, says Harriet, including early-bird menus, happy hours and special themed menus. But rising rent, food and wage costs made the decision to close inevitable.
The restaurant has around 10 staff, four of whom are permanent. One is transferring to the wine bar. The others are mostly local, young casual workers.
The menu for this final week includes old favourites. One dish that has been on the menu from the start is beef carpaccio; one that will return is truffle fries.
A few staff drinks will follow the final service, but then, says Harriet: “We’ll close the door, go home and relieve the babysitter.”